12. Kalyana Beauty
“...when someone buys a product from Kalyana Beauty, it supports a small business that is eco-friendly, using as little plastic as possible, using recycled materials and only natural and cruelty-free ingredients. So it means a lot to me that I can have a small impact on the planet”
The latest Worshipful one is Lauriane Buffé of London-based natural beauty brand, Kalyana Beauty. I was introduced to Laurianne’s soaps by Maïté of Mutai Ceramics and I am now evangelical about them. They look and smell beautiful and they don’t dry out your hands, which is saying something, considering how much more hand washing is going on these days.
Having always had an interest in the natural world, Lauriane studied engineering and life sciences before starting her first job in the food industry. She then moved on to the cosmetic industry, where she has now been a product development manager for three years. Those combined experiences set her up nicely when it came to launching Kalyana Beauty - “I enjoy exploring the science behind ingredients and their effects on the skin, as well the science of aromatherapy. There is so much out there, my background really helps me to understand the chemistry behind it and carefully select my ingredients to create high performing products” she explains.
In 2016 Lauriane quit her job in food and went to India to work for a charity for a year. Being away from home comforts meant that she came away inspired by many of the natural products and beauty rituals she discovered there, using simple ingredients on her skin and hair. Once back in London, she began her journey towards a plastic-free, eco-friendly home: “I decluttered my bathroom to adopt a more minimalist approach to skincare and haircare, making beauty products in my kitchen. And so it all started from there: making soap and enjoying the creative process behind it, as well as the end product. I loved that I could control every ingredient I was putting in and that I could design my own formulas that were non-drying, natural, vegan and cruelty free (and smelling amazing)”. When Lauriane started giving away the excess bars of soap to friends and family, they were so well received that she realised she could build a small business out of it. And so, Kalyana Beauty was born. She is completely self-taught, although she was given some guidance, early on, by a colleague who showed her how to make a batch of soap using the cold process method. From then on she learnt through a process of research and experimentation.
“I would describe myself more like a nerd than an artist, but I always enjoyed crafting growing up and I learned how to sew when I was in high school”. Lauriane’s parents are both teachers who always valued personal development through sport and artistic activities. She considers herself fortunate to come from a large family where, she says, they could take on any hobby they wanted, from music and singing to sports or the arts and where they were encouraged to experiment and grow from it. This mindset remains with her and she loves to try new hobbies: “I recently had a go at embroidery and wreath making for Christmas and I’d love to have a go at upholstery next”.
“I like to associate a fragrance for my soap with a memory of an experience, a moment or a place that has inspired me for a certain design or scent. I love working with essential oils, the complexity of their smell and their effect on the mood”. Lauriane blends essential oils that marry well together, for their properties and effect on the mood, but also their olfactive profile (top/medium/base notes). Top notes such as citrusy essential oils, are often associated with uplifting, energising, happy moods. However, she explains, it is difficult to make them last, so she often mixes them with medium and base notes, like floral or herbal oils such as lavender, geranium-rose, neroli or eucalyptus. These essential oils have relaxing and balancing properties, whereas the more earthy, woody notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli are more grounding and comforting.
I was fascinated watching Lauriane make a batch of her beautiful soaps (see photographs above). I find candle making to be unpredictable and a little stressful and soap making takes that to the next level.
She works entirely from scratch, mixing together liquified oils such as olive oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter or castor oil and sodium hydroxide (also known as caustic soda, or lye). When oils and caustic soda are mixed, a chemical reaction known as “saponification” takes place and this creates soap. Once the oils and caustic soda are at about 55°C, they are mixed together with something known as a sheer mixer to initiate the reaction so that a ‘batter’ starts to form and thicken, which is called ‘trace’. From this point Lauriane works quickly, adding the fragrances, different colours and natural inclusions such as clays, botanicals, seeds etc. This is poured into a silicone mould and using different pouring methods, she creates the patterns such as swirls or layers. She then finishes either with a pattern on the top, or by adding dried botanicals. After approximately two days, she can then remove the cake of soap from the mould and cut the bars to let them cure. Curing takes about 3-4 weeks, becoming a nice solid and well-foaming bar of soap.
Lauriane is currently still working full-time, so runs Kalyana Beauty in the evenings and on the weekends. She finds it challenging to keep everything running in this way, but isn’t yet at the stage where she feels she can take the leap and quit the day job. But, she says, she is very happy where she is and has found a happy and satisfying balance. Her dream is to one day be able to make a living from running Kalyana and to have a bigger soap studio where she can also host workshops, helping others to create their own affordable natural skincare and beauty products.
As with all of the independent makers I’ve spoken to so far, Lauriane is delighted whenever someone makes a purchase from Kalyana Beauty: “I make a small happy dance every time. It honestly feels so rewarding….. when someone buys a product from Kalyana Beauty, it supports a small business that is eco-friendly, using as little plastic as possible, using recycled materials and only natural and cruelty-free ingredients. So it means a lot to me that I can have a small impact on the planet”.